Friday, as I often do, was spend at Jill's (her husband Kevin deserves photocredit for the image of me)
She gave me (re-gifted) some 700 yards of hand spun tusshah silk. The stuff is gorgeous! It's not really Jills' colors, and even though she loves silk, she seemed happy to part with it.
All day Saturday, I fondled it, until finally Saturday night I balled it up, and started to knit.
I had a scant dozen or so more rows waiting to complete Septembers sock, but the 700 or so yard of hand spun tussah silk was driven me insane. I just couldn't not knit with it immediately!
I am not sure what I like best, the color or the hand! The golds, pinks, and raspberry are so warm, and such friendly colors against the skin. The tussah silk is dry, and crisp, yet soft.
By Sunday morning, I had 12 inches or so of knitting done--the start of a top down shawl.
This pattern is one of my favorites, so simple, so pretty. It works with any yarn, and after the
first 10 rows, its a simple 6 row pattern --and really of those 6 rows, 2 are 'repeats' so there
are only 4 'Pattern' rows. Only one row of purl stitches too, for those of you who don't like to purl-- though, personally I don't mind purling. One of the best things about it is, you really don't have to swatch.
Gauge is not critical--It is even a factor--looser, it makes for a more open lacy shawl, tighter, less lacy shawl. It's really a matter of what kind of finished effect you want.
Double Delight, a top down, simple lace shawl
This basic shawl can be worked with any yarn, in any gauge.
Use needles appropriate to the yarn to have firm, but still drapey fabric.
(suggested gauge on yarn ball usually right gauge)
you'll need 400 to 800 yards of yarn, or more as desired.(the finer the yarn, the more yards)
a 29 inch or longer circular needle
4 stitch markers.
Shawl shown is 7 wraps to inch hand spun tussah silk, worked on (US) size 8 needles)
Cast on 7 (any cast on method will work, I use long tail)
Row 1: K3, place marker, K1, place marker, K3
Row 2: K3, YO, slip marker(sm), K1,(sm), YO, K3
Row 3: Knit every stitch
Row 4: K4, YO, sm, K1, sm, YO, K4
Row 5: Knit every stitch
Row 6: K5, Yo, sm, K1, sm, YO, K5
Row 7: Knit every stitch
Row 8: K5, place marker, Yo, K1, Yo sm, K1, sm,Yo, k1, YO, Place marker, K5
Row 9: K5, sm, purl to center marker, sm, P1, sm, purl to edge marker, k5
Begin pattern: EVEN NUMBERED ROWS are Right side
Row 10: K5, sm, YO, Knit to center marker, YO, sm, K1, sm, YO, knit to edge marker, YO, sm, k5
Row 11: K5, sm, purl to center marker, sm, K1, sm, purl to edge marker, sm, K5
Row 12: K5, sm, YO, Knit to center marker, YO, sm, K1, sm, YO, knit to edge marker, YO, sm, K5
Row 13: K5, sm, knit to center marker, sm, P1, sm, knit to edge marker, sm, K5
Row 14: K5, sm, Yo, k1, *[Yo, K2tog] (to center marker-you will have 1 stitch remaining**), k1, YO, sm, K1, sm, Yo, k1, *[Yo, K2tog] (to edge marker-you will have 1 stitch remaining*), k1, YO, sm, K5
Row 15: K5, sm, knit to center marker, sm, P1, sm, knit to edge marker, sm, K5
Repeat rows 10 to 15 as many times as needed, till shawl is desired width and length, (or till
you being to run out of yarn.)
For the best finished edge, work 10 rows of garter (knit every stitch, every row) while still adding 4 YO's every other row. But, even a few rows of garter work well to finish, (if you underestimate, and run out of yarn before completing 10 rows)
Finish by sewing cast on edges together, and weaving in any yarn tails
(Optional-- add yarn fringe, or buy beaded fringe to match and sew onto lower edge of shawl.)
**On some rows, you will have 2 stitches remaining, do not knit these last 2 stitches together,
just knit them.
Rows 10, 11, 12 are stocking knit, with a 5 stitch garter border, 4 increases on right side,
with the center back stitch always knit.
Rows 13, 14, 15 are a lace pattern called beading. Beading consist of : a purl ridge row on right side, then a row of Yo, K2tog,"lace", followed by another row of purl ridge on right side.
In this pattern, there are increases (4) worked on every right side row, included the beading.
The center back stitch is worked as knit stitch on right side.
You can add more rows of stocking knit stitch between the rows of beading if desired.
Key to abbreviations:
K2tog = Knit 2 together
YO= Yarn Over
SM= Slip marker
The Red K1 and P1 in the pattern are 'place markers' to help read the pattern, they are the center stitch in each row.
Here is a rectangular shawl, that also uses "beading" lace pattern.
This shawl has a lacey contrasting edging, and has 9 rows of stocking knit between each beaded
lace section--(repeat Rows 10 to 12, 3 times, then knit Rows 13 to 15--with no increases in any of the rows.)
I cast on 88 stitches, size 10 needle,(or was it 10.5?), using Lion Brand Homespun yarn--
5 skeins, in 2 different colorways, the finished shawl is about 45 by 60 inches.
The actual pattern for these shawl is slightly more complicated--the lace edge is 'cast on' design, and was grafted on to the second edge. The lace edging (my own design) requires that you cast on 18 stitches for every 10 needed (8 stitches are 'lost' in the pattern). But other edgeing, would work as well.
I woke up yesterday morning, and before breakfast, finished (including weaving in!) September's socks. No photo's yet, though.
Since then, I've gotten another 3 inches of the shawl completed- and started yet another pair of socks! Holidays are coming, and I have things to knit.