Jelly Donut (and her sticky fingers) want to know more about gloves.
I've only ever knit one pair—so I am not much of an authority—But I will share what I know.
Gloves, like socks are knit with negative ease.
Conventionally, they are knit from cuff to finger tip. (mittens like socks have cuff to finger and finger to cuff traditions, in various parts of the world, just like socks)
I plan to start at the finger (the most tedious part, I think) get them done, an out of the way, FIRST, then continue onto the larger (about the same size as a sock) hand, and finish with the cuff.
I also will be doing the gloves 2 at time—just as I do socks--on 2 circ's. So first—10 fingers to knit!
The fingers, have as many things do, have a 'rule of thumb' (and index and pointer, and ring and pinky!)
--Knowing it is VERY HELPFUL. While fingers are knit in the round, you should think of them as rectangles—and the rule is 1/3 for front, 1/3 for back, 1/3 divided—for each side.
So the stitch count has to be a number that has both 2 and 3 as a factor. First one? 6 –no good.
Second? 12. (maybe workable with DK weight yarn.) Next? 18 -- next again? 24, but there is no way I am knitting 10 fingers at that gauge! But many old gloves were knit at 48 stitches per finger!--Yowza!
OK so my fingers (well my index finger) is 2 inches at the top joint –(fudging here, its really 1 7/8th inches) 2 inches in middle joint (fudged again--really 2 1/18th) and 2 ½ at the base of the finger.
I could shape the tubes I am going to knit, (well I will a bit!) but for most of the length, the tube will be just just about 2 inches.
I using a fingering weight yarn, (I have swatched) and get 8 stitches to the inches (not perfectly, but close enough) So I need about 16 stitches for each finger. The closest number with the 2 and 3 factors? 18.
So 18 it is. Likely I will cast on 6, increase almost immediately to 12, (for my smaller finger tip) and about 1 inch down increase again, (3 stitches) and a few row latter, 3 more. So my tubes will be slightly tapered, and snuggest at the tip, and just snug at the base.
It's also easy to plan the increases, -since 12 is easily divided by 3 (1 increase ever 4th stitch!) and again by 15 (also divisible by 3) .
These increases will likely be lifted ones (which are least visible increase I know) –to keep a smooth surface.
Once all the fingers are knit, how do they get joined, and does the stitch count work?
--One question at at time!
How do the 18 stitches of each finger get divided set up as stitches for the hand?
Well 1/3rd, (6 for front) 1/3rd (6 ) for back, and 1/3rd—divided (3 and 3) for each 'side--with an exception for the side stitches on the outside of both the pinky and the thumb. With these fingers, the side stitches merge with front an back.
Between the other fingers—index to middle finger, (middle to ring, ring to pinky) the 3 'side stitches' on each finger END where the fingers join the hand portion of the glove, (They are are sewn—or better, grafted shut.) In conventional gloves, stitches are cast on for these finger sides.
So does the math work for the hand? 4(Fingers) X 6(stitches) , +3 more(stitches)
The 3 stitches are I/2 of the 2 sets of 3 side stitches from the both pinky and the index finger—conveniently, the total for the 2 side stitches is 6,--a number easily divided by 2!
OR: 24 + 3=27 stitches (a ball park number for ½ of a sock and equally good for about half of the hand! ) The other side of the glove will have an equal number.
I like to plan gloves as Hand (back of hand) and Palm—because like a sock, they often have different stitch patterning.
It's easy to add a few more stitches--by placing make ones at each finger join-or to decrease at the same places for fewer. In the unlikely event you need increase or decrease more, 2 more stitches can be slipped in, (or out) at the sides. These extra (or fewer) stitches can be very useful for getting a the desired number for stitches for a stitch pattern, as well as being a way to customize the fit.
There are other ways to fudge the fit: Cables (to make finger tubes tighter) or lace (looser) or ribbing --work the 3 side stitches as all purls, or in work them in a , P1, K1, P1 rib, and the fronts and back as K6.
Since the 6 front and back stitch continue into the hand, it's not too hard to have patterns continue into the hand (and palm area) as well.
OK enough –I'll add more if (or when) I have my 10 fingers knit!
The Denim sock's foot is just about half done (about 4.5 inches) so progress has been made—but it doesn't look much different than yesterday--even though the gusset is now (finally!) finished, and I'm back to just 61 stitches in total.