Joined into rounds, all neat on 2 needles, a bit of the cuff done, with little belt loops knit in place. (and definitely a “belt” to come! The loops are very hard to see.. but a belt will make them much more evident. In this image, a DPN is filling in the role of a belt.
I have a video (here), on my FaceBook Fan page, and an explanation:
1—Cast on desired number of stitches onto a circ. (repeat, with second circ.) -Needles 1 and 2.
2—Take needle 1 and move stitches to center of cord, divide, fold cord and pull out a loop.
3—Move the group of stitches that starts with first stitch cast on to tip of needle, (reposition stitches if that is part of how you close a round) Join, (being careful not to twist) and work this group (group 1-1) of stitches, from needle 1 onto needle 1.
4--Take needle 2 and move stitches to center of cord, divide, fold cord and pull out a loop.
5--Move the group of stitches that starts with first stitch cast on to tip of needle, (reposition stitches if that is part of how you close a round) Then working with needle 1, in Right hand , and needle 2 in left hand, join and knit this group(2-1) From needle 2 onto needle 1.
6—At this point, needle 1 has 3 groups of stitches
-----Group 1-1 (worked)
-----Group 2-1 (worked)
-----Group 1-2 (unworked)
-----Needle 2 has one group of stitches, (group 2-2) (unworked)
7—Turn work. (This will “feel” like flat knitting, the groups of stitches just worked will be facing away from you. The yarn will be in last stitch worked—and a right –ready to be used on stitches in front of you.)
8--With Needle 2, work the stitches on needle 2 (group 2-2)These stitches are worked from needle 2, onto needle 2.
9—Holding needle 2 in right hand, work the last group of stitches, (group 1-2) from needle 1, to needle 2.
Stitches are now organized onto 2 needles, and joined onto rounds, (1 round on each sock has been knit.
10—Turn work, and Begin Round 2.
End—The tail of yarn can be used to as a beginning of round marker.
For me, Needle 1 (beginning of the round) holds the back/heel sole of the socks.
Needle 2 holds the front/top/instep.
The beginning of the round is on the side (not center back) This make almost no difference.
It makes heels easy--(start the heel stitch at the beginning of a round (stitch 1 of needle 1))
It makes turnings different—slightly. But if you have knit more than 1 pair of socks, it's not a problem.
It might seem so, reading it, but once you are knitting, it's very easy to understand.
I use a marker to keep track of the center of the heel, (a fake beginning of round marker).
When I pick up stitches for the gussets, they all go onto needle 1 (its a bit crowded and awkward for the first few rounds, but with ever set of decreases, it gets easier.)
Toes are super simple—especial flat (aka French) ones.. but swirl and star are simple too!
I like my method because it make it easy to do fancy cast ons (or edgings like a latvian twist) and to join the work into a round with out the need to slip or repositon any stitches.
There are other methods (most involve casting onto 2 needles, and or reposition stitches (slipping them with out knitting them) or... I like my method, it works for me!