I like the way a flapped, turned and
gusset heel fits—especially because there are so many options. The
ability to make a shorter than average or longer than average flap,
in a number of different slip stitch patterns, means you can (and I
do) customize the flap.
There are plenty more options for the
turning.. Heels by Number is a good resource for turnings... And that
site just includes conventional turnings... There are
unconventionally ones as well-- It also just included even numbered
turnings—and I often do odd numbered ones.. So the flap is another
customizable element to the heel.
Lastly, the gusset-- I did pretty
conventional ones.. on the sides of the socks, but I have, at other
times, done inverted gussets on the instep, and hidden ones on the
sole, One of these days, I will do an asymmetrical one---
One disadvantage is the basic formula:
Knit a flap with ½ of total
stitches—my socks are being worked on size 1's (2.25mm) with 72
stitches—so a 36 stitch flap.
Step 2—make the flap as long as it
wide—36 rows, with half of them slipped to change the gauge.
Step 3—work the turn
Step 4—pick up stitches, one every
other row, on each side of the flap—and here again is a place for
customizing—I picked up 19--(not 18) because my flap was 38 rows,
not 36, and then I picked up a pair of bonus stitches, in the corner,
for a neat hole free join as I once again began to knit in the round.
So 40 stitches picked up, plus the 18
left from the turning, and the sole of the sock is 58—not 36. This works out to 22
decreases over 44 rows.. It takes a long time till the sole of the
sock starts feeling “normal” (and 36 is a big normal for me—Most
often I knit socks with 60 to 64 stitches, not 72!
This style of shaping the heel results
in a lot more stitches! And because the heel flap and turning have
few stitches, and the gussets a lot more—its pretty normal for hand
dyed, or self striping yarns to have a change in pattern.. Sometimes
with huge pools of color. This yarn is exceptional—there is a
little pooling –but not much, and center front—the pattern is
almost unchanged!
Another thing about sock yarns, besides
pooling and patterning, is the wide range of sizes--that is yarn sizes... Some
sock yarns (I think of Kroy 4 ply) is almost a sports weight
yarn—This yarn is the other end of the spectrum—a lace weight!
The socks are very thin, and still very
soft even with a tighter gauge--(72 stitches in a 7 inch sock, so I am
working at about 10 stitches per inch) not my usual 8 stitches per
inch. That makes a difference—these socks are more work than
average. They are also thinner/finer than average. I have a few
other pairs make with yarns as fine, (and similar gauges) and amazing
enough, they hold up very well. I could have gone down to size zero
needles—and had an even tighter gauge—and firmer fabric for the
sock, (but I am lazy).
With the end of the gusset, the sole is
3 inches long. I need a total of 9.5, but I will pick up speed now
that the gusset is done. Plain knitting on the sole, and the wide
rib on the instep are easy knitting. There really looking like socks now.
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